Ayala Moriel Parfums
This is not just a grin: it’s a green grin... Green grass, green flowers, a green world waking up in the spring. A reviving, fresh scent, composed of the finest flower essences: Bulgarian and Turkish Rose, Indian Jasmine and Tasmanian Boronia, which is reminiscent of freesia. Grin is elegant and refined yet playful and romantic – like stepping into a flower shop, rolling in the grass and sniffing a meadow full of flowers!
Top notes: Galbanum, Violet Leaves, Green Pepper
Heart notes: Boronia, Rose, Jasmine
Base notes: Vetiver, Oud, Oakmoss
Ayala Moriel Parfums
In a Station of the Metro
The apparition of these faces in the crowd;
Petals on a wet, black bough.
- Ezra Pound
Perfume In A Poem March 2008: 15 perfumers were invited to interpret one poem. Hanami is my contribution to the project.
Top notes: Cabreuva, Frangipani, Mimosa, Rosewood
Heart notes: Pink Lotus, Magnolia, Tuberose, Violet Leaf, Oleander
Base notes: Haitian Vetiver, Tonka Bean, Cassie, Siamwood, Vanilla CO2, Copaiba Balsam, Bakul Attar
Fragrance Families: Wet Woody Floral
Ayala Moriel Parfums
Velvety, deep aromas of aniseed notes with a warm base of woods and iris along with cool, green notes of violet leaf and boronia create an unusual, mysterious perfume of extreme individuality: enigmatic and reflective as the sky after sunset.
Top notes: Anise, Neroli, Tarragon, Caraway
Heart notes: Boronia, Carnation, Orris Butter
Base notes: Amber, Frankincense, Himalaya Cedarwood
On sale $300.00 $18.00
Ayala Moriel Parfums
l'Écume des Jours is inspired by the perfect symmetry and profound beauty portrayed in Boris Vian's most praised novel by the same name. Cheerful Pianola top notes of cassis and freesia lead to Chloe’s deadly Lung Water Lilly. The melancholy base of green moss and watery marine seaweed reflects the tragic conclusion of the tale. l'Écume des Jours is a strange perfume of unusual harmony that inspires appreciation for the simple beauty that is found in all things – especially the Jazz of New Orleans...
Top notes: Cassis, Boronia, Green Pepper
Heart notes: Rose, Lotus, Tuberose
Base notes: Seaweed, Cedar moss, Sandalwood
Fragrance Family: Floral Green, Floral Aquatic, Marine/Oceanic
Happy Summer Solstice!
Antique Amber perfume is a tribute to the sign of Cancer, whose colour is orange and correspondent "gemstone" none other than amber. Ruled by the moon, it is characterized by a similar ebb and flow and fluctuation of contrast - hot/cold, open/guarded. Cancer is the sign of home life, family and stability, motherly protection and nurturing.
This perfume brings together water plants and amber, fragrantly portraying the qualities of Cancer: Deep Emotions, Sensitivity, and Mystery.
Top notes: Borneol Camphor, Aniseed
Heart note: Jasmine
Base notes: Amber, Patchouli
Fragrance Family: Opulent Ambery
Cancer birthdate: June 21 - July 22
This week I've started making my first Sambac Jasmine enfleurage. My bush is small and didn't yield so many flowers so far, so I've only incorporated this beautiful flower in my enfleurage melange in previous years.
This year it has a few more flowers, but I'm mostly digging into my mother's garden for flowers, which are especially abundant right now. I've done a few half-trays and even popped in my gardenia flowers, and also some star jasmine flowers... But the main scent for this tray will be sampaquita.
I've always been under the impression that I should only bother with enfleurage for flowers for which I do not have an absolute or essential oil. Turns out I was wrong. It is always a good idea to create enfleurage for whichever flowers you have in abundance and that yield good results from this unique extraction. The reason being that enfleurage gives a different fragrance profile than essential oil or absolute extraction. Because the flowers "keep living" on the tray, they keep morphing and changing and so does their scent. For some flowers, the scent intensifies (see: Tuberose). For others, it creates a true representation of the fresh flowers (i.e. Hyacinth, sweet pea and narcissus). For example, in Jasmine Grandiflorum, the indole really intensifies on the tray, which is for better or for worse (indole is responsible for the faecal and animal facet in jasmine, which is essential to its character, but can be a bit too dirty to many people). In the case of Jasmine Sambac, it brings out the peachy, laconic, peachy aspects and makes it oh so yummy. The methyl anthranilate also contributes to its fruity-floral character.
An interesting thing that happens with jasmine sambac, is that it turns purple as it ages. I'm still trying to figure out what is the reason for that. My suspicion is that it is the result of the breakdown of the nitrile compounds in the jasmine. Methyl anthranilate, specifically, contains nitrogen (its chemical formula is C8H9NO2). It does not happen in jasmine grandiflorum, which just turns cream or tawny-brown colour when it dries.
Gemini arrives as spring's sun intensifies transitions us into the beginning of summer. As if carried on a warm wind, with a carefree spirit of a butterfly, it signifies the ability to transition happily, curiously seeking novelty and good company.
I chose a Flight of Citrus (Vol d'Agrumes in French) when translating the energy of Gemini into a scent. Gemini is ruled by Mercury, which is the planet of communication, adaptability and versatility, like quicksilver. So naturally I was led into the realm of effervescent citrus notes, a melange of citrus fruit and herbs which is as light as Air. And like the time of the year, it transitions us beautifully from spring into summer, a scent that is refreshing and versatile in every way.
Vol d'Agrumes zodiac perfume oil is vibrant, fun and easy to wear.
Top notes: Lavender, Lemon
Heart notes: Lemongrass
Base notes: Oakmoss, Musk Notes
Fragrance Family: Citrus Fantasy, Chypre Fresh
Gemini birthdate: May 21-June 20
Indigo is a mystery: an elusive colour that hides in several plants across the world. The preparation of indigo is like an ancient ritual, and one of the telling signs that it worked is a coppery patina and the "Indigo Flower" that forms on top of the surface. The blue indigo flowers pictured above are in fact the dried up fruits of milk thistles that I have dipped into the vat and dyed their fuzzy hairs blue.
Each continent has its own indigotin-bearing plant, and it's amazing how ancient civilizations have unlocked the secret for extracting and dyeing with it. Indigo does not dissolve in water and requires a careful alchemical process before it can be used as a dye. It is the most durable natural dye, and we are all familiar with it through denim, which represents just some of the shades that can be achieved with indigo dye.
I've been dreaming of shibori dyeing with indigo and have finally became confident enough to prepare my own indigo vat. Indigo powder has a peculiar scent that is familiar from henna dyes (they are histoic allies, often used in conjunction for making the paste known as "black henna", and also henna is a natural reaction agent in the indigo vat). I used dates in my own vat, and it smells like milky bubble tea which makes indigo dyeing all the more enjoyable!
Before I even knew anything about Indigo I was inspired to create a perfume by that name. It is an homage to my mother, herself a mystery. The perfume smells like a velvet indigo hug.