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Vintage Gardenia

While most of the Jo Malone scents are very simplistic and leave me cold for the most part, Vintage Gardenia made me feel instantly at home. It reminded me of the smell in my best friend's childhood home. It is similar to a certain soap they used. Therefore, Vintage Gardenia to me smells both clean and warm. I find the combination of notes to be working fantastically well, although they are quite unusual. Cardamom is one of my favourite spice notes, and thankfully it is present here in abundance and adds depth and character to what could otherwise be an overly heady white floral (as in too many gardenia scents that I can possibly mention). After the initial heady notes of the sambac and cardmom subside, a creamy heart of tuberose emerges, gentle, soft and slightly resembles and petal-kissed skin. It’s a tuberose with no off-putting notes (nothing rubbery, green or too sweet, just sheer pleasure of soft perals). The base is warm and slightly bitter from the myrrh, which also balances the sweetness of the floral notes really well. Overall, the perfume smells to me like a combination of jasmine sambac, cardamom, tuberose and myrrh. Vintage Gardenia is not only one of the most original Jo Malone scent, and my personal favourite - it is also one of my most favourite gardenias!

Black Vetyver Café

I wish the miniature cologne collection included some Black Vetyver Café, but it didn’t. This is my second favourite from the Jo Malone line - right after Vintage Gardenia. Black Vetyver Cafe is exactly what it sounds: vetyver and coffee! The combination sounds strange, but it works magically well. It starts with black coffee note, and than dries down to a clean, woody vetyver. I can smell another woody element there, which makes it softer than just straight-up vetyver. I think it's sandalwood, but it could be the sequia note. I just wish the coffee note lasted longer and that the dry down was a tad sweeter, not all that woody. Compared with Vintage Gardenia, Black Vetyver Café is more intriguing, yetless balanced in my opinion. I am not a fan of layering, but it does smells better when layered with Vintage Gardenia, if you use a much lesser amount of the Black Vetyver Café. Any way you look at it – from a vetyver or a coffee angle - this is a unique scent and should not be missed.

Amber & Lavender

When I lived on the ground level of an old Victorian-style building just a few blocks away, with a hardwood floor and a (non-operaive) fireplace, one of the sample vials of Amber & Lavender fell on the floor and crashed one day without me noticing. I remember laying at bed at night and wondering how come I can smel the cologne of a guy passing by on the street. Living on the ground level that was actually possible just as much as being affected by skunks passing by!
When I woke up the next day to find out that this men’s cologne is still around I was a bit worried… It wasn’t until days later that I found the crashed vial of Amber & Lavender on the floor and had to have a good lough and called my boyfriend to let him know I am no longer worried about the stocker with the sexy cologne…

Amber & Lavender is not so much about amber or lavender as it is about Fougere, and not the most ambery Fougere at that. It’s herbal and clean, with a bold presence and a classical masculine appearance. The base is a tad animalic, even indolic, and a tad spicy. Apparently, this was Jo Malone’s creation for her husband, and I am not surprised. A good Fougere scent is the epitome of masculine scents, and what I associate most with my man.
If you follow some of Jo Malone suggestions for layering with Amber & Lavener, you’d be surprised how versatile this scent is. It is equally warm and fresh, and adds an interesting twist to some of her other scents. The notes that stand out most for me are lavender, sage, cloves, amber and oakmoss.

Grapefruit Cologne

The Grapefruit Cologne used to be one of my favourites from the line, but after I discovered the true identity of Orange Blossom, it kind of lost some of its charm for me. It’s a rather simple citrus cologne, and conjures a very aromatic grapefruit, so expect nothing of the sweetness of Guerlain’s Pampelmousse. Grapefruit is not the first thing that you think of when smelling this cologne, but rather – citrus. It’s a reviving and refreshing scent, and very handsomely done. I think one of the most incredible thing about it though is how well it layers with other Jo Malone scents. It makes the nasty Blue Agava and Cacao smell delicious and alive, and adds spark to anything really.

Blue Agava & Cacao

This is a very peculiar Jo Malone, and is really different from the rest of the line. Even more different than Pomegranate Noir, as it not only combines notes that are very unusual and not often used in perfumes, but also notes that don’t really go very well together… This starts off kind of aromatic and green (must be the agava), but you can smell the cacao bitter-sweetness in the background. For some reason, this smells like a toilet duck to me. I usually try to stay away from such associations to describe scents, but this is what this reminds me of, in a peculiar, perfumey kind of way. Thankfully, it’s a well done toilet duck and it actually smells pleasant in its own odd way. The dry down smells to me almost exactly like Coty’s Musk Vanilla. Very nice. But we all know of the price difference between the two… And Musk Vanilla not having the toilet duck scent and also costing a fraction of Blue Agava and Cacao – I think the bottom line can be left out as it’s so obvious.

Blue Agava & Cacao also stands out (in a negative way, I am afraid) because of its lack of balance. The other Jo Malone scents, even if theoretically sweet (such as Vintage Gardenia) or gourmand (Black Vetyver Café) do have something else to balance that sweetness, and so the final result fits in well with the “Cologne” concept of the line: simplicity, freshness, elegance. Blue Agava and Cacao seems as an artificial installation in this clean gallery of odours. It may please many, but it doesn’t seem like a “real” Jo Malone.

To me it smells like "Jo Malone meets Tom Ford", an event that might have taken place in the Estee Lauder boardroom.

It does get better though, when layered with other Jo Malone classics, such as the Grapefruit Cologne or the Amber & Lavender Cologne.

As a side note, Agava just sounds plain horrible in my native language, so I may not be all that objective after all. It sounds very similar to both the name for syphilis and tomato… Ouch!
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