s

SmellyBlog

4711 Echt Kölnisch Wasser


4-711, originally uploaded by cool_colonia4711.

As mentioned earlier, the earliest alcohol based perfumes were the Aqua Mirabillis – the miracle water taken both internally and externally. The most famous of them all, even if not necessarily the best, is 4711 Echt Kölnisch Wasser.

The story
about how this perfume formula came to Muelhens’ (the founder of 4711) hands has become a cliché: in 1792, a Carthusian monk gave this formula of Aqua Mirabillis to Muelhen and his bride as a wedding gift, asking only that they will treat it with the regard it deserved. Muelhens did not underestimate its value, and founded a company to manufacture this formula, in the city of Koln (Cologne) in Germany. In 1796, when the city was occupied by the French, all the houses on the streets were numbered, and the house of Muelhens’ factory was numbered 4711. In 1875 this number was trademarked as the company’s name.

It is hard to say what is it that made the perfume so successful: whether if it clever marketing or a true genious of the fragrance itself, or, alternatively, a karmic blessing from the monk who created it. But all we know is that 4711 has become a staple in almost any household. My grandmother (born in Berlin, 1924) recalls her both her grandmother and mother using it. I also never heard her complain that the fragrance have changed. So perhaps there wasn’t any significant change in the formula, although I won’t be surprised if some synthetic fixatives have made it in. I wouldn’t drink it now, that’s for sure…


eau de cologne automat, originally uploaded by deedeee.

As for the scent itself – nowadays it seems neither particularly interesting nor original. It’s a simple, refreshing citrus cologne centered around neroli and petitgrain, which are the key notes here. It is cool and refreshing, with a hint of honeyed sweetness from the nerli, further accentuated by the sweetness of orange and bergamot top notes. Yet, it also has a distinctive astringent, dry and almost minty quality from the petitigrain and the herbal notes of rosemary and lavender. The base is mostly sandalwood and musk, which explains why I never took on to liking 4711 personally. Sandalwood smells terrible on my skin, particularly when paired with neroli. If your skin doesn’t suffer this bias, this would be probably the most valuable staple for hot summer months, as it is sold for very decent price and can be easily found almost in any drugstore, and in Germany you an even find these in an automatic vending machines! You can even still get the Eau de Cologne in those huge original vast of 800ml, where it definitely looks more like a drink than a toiletry. Salut!


07B_5506, originally uploaded by skintype.

Tabu

Tabu has a dry edge of spices and carnation with a heart of gold – rose, orange blossom and jasmine - sweetened with resinous honey note over a sultry foundation of patchouli, amber, oakmoss, civet and musk. Although the top notes seem dry and somewhat severe at first, they quickly evolve into voluptuous and seductive curves that whisper a lustful invitation.

And you better listen to those whispers, as Tabu is the definition of a good buy – a high quality, original perfume with class and lasting power (remarkable for an Eau de Cologne!) which any great name perfume house would be proud of, for prices as low as $8-$15 depending on the size. It’s also very reliable: it’s been around since 1932 and hasn’t been altered as far as I know. In fact, it is written in the history of perfumes as the trendsetter for perfumes such as the patchouli drenched Youth Dew (1952), the spicy carnation & incense Opium (1977) and the ambery-mossy Obsession (1985) that tried their hand at this Oriental greatness only decades later, and in my opinion owe much for their greatness to the taboo breaking Tabu.

Tabu truly fits its name and image (as in the famous painting in the original advertisement): a forbidden, sensually provocative scent – just like the forbidden love between Anita and Holger in the unforgettable film “Intermezzo”.

The opening is dry and spicy with some orange notes; the heart is a well rounded floral; and the base is a sweet, animalic amber with powdery characteristics. It’s a seductive scent and I love wearing it in the winter or for bedtime, as it is rather comforting.

Top notes: Orange, Allspice, Carnation
Heart notes: Orange blossom, Rose, Jasmine
Base notes: Amber, Civet, Patchouli, Civet, Musk




Photo from Intermezzo from Luebe.de


Youth Dew

With its dark juice and dense composition, the name Youth Dew seems a bit out of place - unless the dew drop smells of civet, and adorns a wild narcissus in the middle of winter. The opening of Youth Dew reminds me tightly knotted woolen yarn, soft, warm and inviting - yet you can’t find the end/beginning and start knitting yet!
As it settles on the skin, it starts opening up, one bit at a time. As the citrus wears off and the spices soften by woody undercurrent, bit by bit the floral heart starts to emerge until reaching a peak – where narcissus and ylang ylang dance to the indolic rhythm of the civet base – sexual to a degree that borders on the impolite, so you need to hold on with self-conviction and dignity. But even the luscious of flowers decompose and return to earth, this time made of muddy puddle of earthy patchouli and vetiver which gradually softens and mellows until finally reaching a delicate dry down phase that is vanillic and surprisingly reminiscent of Chanel no. 5.

This is the review for the pure parfum – a limited edition in a beautiful, frosted flacon with a delicate frosted flower stopper, filled with the almost black juice this leaves an unforgettable impression!
I find Youth Dew to be very suitable for winter, and can’t imagine wearing it in any other season and being able to keep my olfactory bulb intact. The indolic heart and the earthy base surprisingly reminds me of sticking my nose into a narcissus, inhaling the scent that smells so delicate from afar, and so deadly from nearby; inhaling it along with the some rare raindrops that clang to the petals; All this after spending the whole afternoon jumping in puddles after the rain stopped

Top notes: Citrus and Spices
Heart notes: Narcissus, Ylang Ylang, Cloves, Rose
Base notes: Civet, Patchouli, Vetiver, Vanilla
Back to the top